Gardening General

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18 Comments

Comment by Mary Heaner on October 18, 2009 at 3:25am

Thanks, Joel. I have found places in the U.S. where I can order it but getting through customs here can be lengthy. I was just hoping for an EU source.

Comment by Joel LeGrand on October 17, 2009 at 4:13pm

Hi Mary,
You can try www.warmocks.com or www.nex tag.com also.

Comment by Joel LeGrand on October 17, 2009 at 3:03pm

Hi Mary,
Vermont Bean Seed Company sells "Organic Rhizobia Inoculant" granular type.
1-800-349-1071. I will call monday to see if they ship out of the U.S.A.

Comment by Mary Heaner on October 17, 2009 at 3:33am

Where, in the EU can I order inoculant for my broad beans?

Comment by Joel LeGrand on September 18, 2009 at 6:54pm

I started my fall garden this week, onion, cabbage,turnips &broccoli.

Comment by Joel LeGrand on July 27, 2009 at 10:19am

Thanks Gillian,Lakeecha, Carol.
I planted to late this year, the heat got my potatoes vines, I got golf ball size tubers. I Planted tubers 4" deep in loose soil, then when plant is 4"-6" tall I pull up soil around the vines, making a hill. A friend cut the bottom out of 5 gallon bucket, then set the buckets in rolls of tilled soil. The tuber is planted in the soil in the bottom the bucket. As the vine grows add more soil/compost to the bucket, leaving 2"-4" inches of the vine above soil level. When the plant reaches the top of the bucket, water& feed as you would any potato plant. After blooming or the vine died kick the bucket over, dump the soil/ tubers out on the ground. A few tubers may be in the soil at ground level. I have not tryed this yet, I do, I will take photos.

Comment by Carol on June 29, 2009 at 2:57pm

My favorite way to grow potatoes is under straw. By this I mean that you simply lay the tuber pieces on the surface of the soil and cover with 12" or so of straw. You will need to add straw from time to time to keep the volume over the plants, but they will emerge through the straw, I assure you. The potatoes stay quite clean and it is so easy to harvest the first few (after flowering) as you need them by simply parting the straw, taking what you need and what is ready, and covering them with straw again. At harvest I just set the straw in the path between the potato rows and gather the mature tubers. The straw can then be tilled into the ground. I throw a little compost or manure on the straw to aid in decomposition. I've been growing potatoes like this for years and years.

Comment by Lakeecha Murrell on May 8, 2009 at 1:08pm

Your may begin to harvest your potatoes 2 to 3-weeks after the plants have finished flowering. At this time you will only find small "baby" potatoes if you were to dig up a plant. Potatoes can be harvested any time after this, by gently loosening the soil, reaching under the plant, and removing the largest tubers, leaving the smaller ones to continue growing.
If you want late potatoes for storage, wait 2-3 weeks after the foliage dies back. Carefully begin digging a foot or so outside of the row or mound. Remove the potatoes as you find them. (Be careful not to bruise or cut the tubers with your spade!) If the weather is dry, allow the potatoes to lay on the soil surface, unwashed, for 2-3 days so they can dry. If the weather is wet, or rain is expected, move the harvest to a cool, dry area (like a garage or basement) for the drying period. This drying step is necessary to mature the potato skin, which will protect the potato during storage.
If, by the end of September, the plants have not begun to die back, all of the foliage should be cut off to ensure your crop has ample time to mature before winter.
Store your undamaged potatoes in a well-ventilated, dark, cool (about 40 degrees) location. Properly dried and stored potatoes should keep well for three to six months.

Comment by Joy Williams on May 3, 2009 at 10:40pm

Hi Jacki!

Comment by Joy Williams on May 3, 2009 at 10:39pm

Clancy, they are ready to dig up when they flower.

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